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OMC electric shift rebuilt used lower units

Replacement OMC electric shift outdrive lower unit

Last updated on 10/13/2023

  • Complete re-manufactured / rebuilt replacement lower unit with 1 year warranty
  • Includes full tech support by phone with one of our OMC techs
  • Compatible with 1972 – 1977 electric shift models with 10 bolt swivel bearing retainer/housing
  • 1967 – 1971 models with 8 bolt swivel housings also available. Contact us for availability.
  • Assembled with used OEM parts with new seals and bearings
  • Includes shift cable
  • *Core deposit is required. $360 deposit is refunded upon return of your old lower unit.
  • Propeller not included. We stock a variety of used Electric Shift propellers.
  • Top 10 ways to keep your OMC electric shift out-drive running, please see section below
OMC electric shift

OMC sterndrive electric shift lower unit

OMC electric shift, Electric shift OMC stringer lower unit

Stringer lower unit gearcase repair

OMC electric shift, Electric shift OMC stringer lower unit

Swivel housing bearing retainer 10 bolt 1972-1977 OEM 980014

OMC electric shift

Outdrive gear head assembly hub OEM 381849

$1649.99 US
$2144.99 CDN
Basic repair cost $595 USD
– includes re-sealing, clutch spring repair (if needed)

Complete Rebuilt Lower Unit Replacement
$1649.99 USD (Plus $360 core deposit) $2144.99 CDN

10 ways to keep your OMC electric shift outdrive running

OMC electric shift stern drives have been in providing service for over 50 years. There installed on large 40 foot houseboats, barges and smaller single engine boats 26 feet and down. These heavy duty unit can stand the test of time if and only if you stay with in the parameters of the outdrive.

  1. Check your engine ideal speed this out-drive is one of best built lower units ever made how ever a sure way to kill it is with high ideal speed , Please check your manual for exact rpm. Normal operating rang is 500 to 600 range. Most V8 engines 1974 to 1977 that i owned did great at 550 to 570 RPM. This can be checked with a low end rang car tack sold on ebay and auto stores. Do not make the mistake of thinking the engine sounds good or an old 40 to 50 year tach-meter on the boat is still working fine as most do not.
  2. Add a carburetor return spring or door closing spring form the hardware store to insure the gas cable returns to the same location and without delay each time. The small spring on carburetor is not very reliable.
  3. Change 2 wires coming from forward / reverse shifter to the engine compartment out-drive connection and place plastic tie wraps on the connections.
  4. Add one new wire going from negative on battery terminal to outside of out-dive lower unit case to maintain integrity of the ground.
  5. Check shifter switch contacts by taping on the shifter or just change the micro switch to a new one is the best solution if you don’t have test equipment.
  6. Change starter switch and wire that leads to common on forward / reverse shifter.
  7. Use an aluminum propeller that the fins can break if you hit a rock
  8. Stay away from stainless steel propeller as torque from start to forward and forward to reverse can break clutch spring
  9. Go easy on throttle when going into reverse gear at dock as this action pull outdrive away from boat wearing out the ball gears,
  10. Use Type C oil only in electric shift lower unit and 70-90 weight oil in upper gear-case and intermediate housing. Thicker oil will help keep the bearings in upper gear-case running longer. Note some repair manuals have error in regards to type C oil in the upper gear-case.